Neither / Both Südtirol / Trentino-Alto Adige: a place that feels strangely familiar and foreign at once. It’s the only place I know where German and Italian live side by side without needing to blend. They don’t just translate each other, they co-exist. Like two truths in one sentence. Like dishes that don’t belong to one country, but to a shared history of borders, climate, and negotiation. Today I had pasta with wild garlic, king oyster mushrooms, and too much butter. It tasted like something that grew up between languages — dense, quiet, deeply comforting. Maybe that’s why I keep coming back here. Not for clarity, but for the soft edges. For the way contradiction can feel like home.